How to Remove Kitchen Cabinets: Step-by-Step Demo Guide

Removing kitchen cabinets is a job most homeowners can do themselves with a helper and a half-day. The right sequence matters — uppers always come down before lowers — and there are a few things that catch people off guard. Here’s the full process.

The Right Order: Always Upper Cabinets First

This is the cardinal rule of cabinet removal. If you remove base cabinets first, you lose your work surface and make upper cabinet removal much more dangerous — you’re working at height with nothing stable to stand on.

Order of operations:

1. Upper cabinets (wall-mounted, no countertop connection)
2. Countertops (if removing)
3. Base cabinets (floor-mounted)
4. Any remaining trim, toe kicks, and fillers

Before You Start

Turn off utilities at the relevant breaker and shutoffs. Cabinets often contain or are near electrical outlets, lighting circuits, and plumbing (under the sink). Identify and shut off:

• Any circuits in the kitchen (or just the whole kitchen breaker)
• Water supply valves under the sink
• Garbage disposal circuit

Photograph everything first. Cabinet layout, utility locations, any notes about what’s behind the cabinets. You’ll reference these during reinstallation planning and when showing contractors what was there.

Clear the cabinets completely. All dishes, pots, food, and anything stored inside — don’t try to remove them as you go.

Upper Cabinet Removal

Upper cabinets are the safety-critical step. They’re heavier than they look (a full run of uppers can be 150–300 pounds), they’re at head height, and they’re attached to studs behind drywall.

You need a helper. This is not optional.

Step 1: Remove doors and hardware.

Unscrew hinges at the cabinet body (not the door — remove the door from the hinge, not the hinge from the cabinet). Stack doors against a wall out of the work area. This reduces weight and makes the cabinet body easier to handle.

Step 2: Cut caulk and paint seams.

Run a utility knife along the top, sides, and bottom where the cabinet meets the wall. If the cabinet was caulked or had multiple coats of paint, this cut prevents drywall paper from tearing when the cabinet pulls away.

Step 3: Support the cabinet.

Before removing screws, have your helper hold the cabinet or prop it from below with a temporary ledger board. A ledger is a 2×4 screwed to the wall studs at the base of the upper cabinet run — the cabinets rest on it as you work, freeing both hands.

Step 4: Find and remove the mounting screws.

Upper cabinets are screwed through a mounting rail inside the cabinet into wall studs. Open the cabinet and look along the top inside edge — that’s where the screws are. Use a stud finder to confirm stud locations before you start. Remove all screws with a drill.

Step 5: Lower the cabinet away from the wall.

With your helper supporting the weight, tilt the cabinet forward off the wall. Lower it together. Don’t try to do this alone.

Countertop Removal (Before Base Cabinets)

Laminate countertops: Usually screwed from underneath — look for screws through triangular wood brackets inside the base cabinets near the corners. Back them out and lift the countertop off. Heavy granite or stone countertops may require professional removal.

Stone (granite, quartz): These are extremely heavy and sometimes silicone-adhered to the cabinet tops. Work a utility knife or oscillating tool along the front edge to break the silicone bond. Have at least 2–3 people for granite — a standard kitchen granite countertop can weigh 400+ pounds.

Tile-on-plywood countertops: The tile and substrate usually come up as one unit. Cut the caulk at the backsplash, back out any screws, and pry up.

Base Cabinet Removal

Base cabinets are heavier but lower and safer — no overhead risk.

Step 1: Disconnect plumbing and appliances.

Remove the garbage disposal (unclip from the sink flange and unplug). Disconnect the dishwasher water supply and drain line. Disconnect the sink drain. Cap water supply lines.

Step 2: Remove the sink.

Undermount sinks are screwed to the countertop from below and silicone-sealed — if you’re removing the countertop anyway, the sink usually comes out with it. Drop-in sinks lift out after releasing the mounting clips underneath.

Step 3: Remove the face frame screws and any corner blocks.

Base cabinets are often screwed together at the face frames (the front). Look for screws at the sides of the face frame stiles connecting adjacent cabinets. Back these out to separate the cabinet run.

Step 4: Remove wall anchoring screws.

Base cabinets are also screwed to studs through the back panel. Remove those screws and the cabinet should pull free.

Step 5: Remove toe kicks.

The toe kick (the recessed panel at the floor) is usually nailed or stapled on separately. Pry it off after cabinets are out.

Dealing with What’s Behind the Cabinets

When cabinets come off, you’ll find the wall behind them — often unpainted, sometimes with old wiring, and sometimes with surprises.

Common findings:

• Old plaster or drywall in rough condition — patch before installing new cabinets
• Outdated wiring — have an electrician evaluate if it looks old or improper
• Studs in unexpected locations — use a stud finder and mark before cabinets are fully removed

What to Do With Old Cabinets

Donate: Habitat for Humanity ReStore accepts kitchen cabinets in usable condition. Some locations offer pickup for large donations. This is the right path for solid wood or quality semi-custom cabinets that someone else can use.

Sell: Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, or local salvage stores. Solid wood cabinets and high-end brands move. Budget laminate cabinets from a tract home usually don’t — be realistic about what the market will pay.

Junk removal: The fastest option for old, laminate, or damaged cabinets not worth reselling. A junk removal crew can haul a full kitchen’s worth of cabinets in a single visit. Junk Doctors handles renovation debris including cabinetry throughout NC — describe the load when calling so we bring the right equipment.

Dumpster: If you’re doing a full kitchen gut, a roll-off dumpster is often more cost-effective than junk removal for the combined cabinet, countertop, and debris load.